Kaliningrad is a city with some really nice parts that then spread to the worst of Soviet architecture. The central square, Pobedy, is very pretty backing onto a church, and the pond in the north near my hotel was pleasant.
What is frustrating is the potential Russia throws away. The two Germans I met on the spit said one British guy was cycling all the day round, rather than getting a visa. Two hostel had also opened, one in the best area near the cathedral, but had evidently closed.
Visas are the biggest issue for most travelers, particularly those on a budget. Rich people will probably not go to Kaliningrad anyway.
Just opening the border would create a host of business opportunities, but at the moment they are failing.
The cathedral where Kant is buried is certainly worth checking out, as is the quaint, adjacent fishing village. The fort which now houses the museum of oceanography is interesting, but in the port, which has been overtaken by heavy industry.
I'm not particularly looking forward to getting back out on the Russian roads again, as the way out of town seems pretty busy.
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