Day 42 - Detmold to Münster

After riding 136.7 kilometres I'm feeling surprisingly fine. This was about the easiest cycling day since the ride out of Riga.

To start with it dropped about 200 metres, and there were no hills to speak of. The towns on route were also barely worth mentioning so it made sense to take advantage of a cool, dry day to get as far as possible making Münster the perfect destination.

Most of the land in the region is farming, and endless fields don't make great viewing.

The most interesting place on the way was Warendorf, which is famous for its studs. Outside almost every shop there was a painted horse in the pedestrianised town centre.

The other place that could be worth a visit is a nunnery that seeks to replicate biblical times. It was a little bit off route so I didn't go as it was early in the day and I was unsure about whether I'd make the distance.

More about Münster tomorrow as I'm taking a day off.

Day 43 - Münster rest day

There are some really great things about Germany and Münster is one of them.

Here you are more likely to be run over by a bicycle than a car as pedals are in power. And that isn't particularly probable either as everyone let's you cross or pass without a problem.

I've struggled to work out German road rules after being shouted at by a driver who wanted to pull out from the right near Goslar. There weren't any road markings saying I should give way and he was clearly turning into my road. I understand that on Berlin's system of crossroads it is like a roundabout with priority going to the right.

Münster, in contract, doesn't seem to need road rules. Everyone is too courteous.

It is also a nice city to walk around, at least in the old town. There are 4 main churches, the most impressive of which is the Lambertikirche. It looks a bit like a mini Sagrada Familia with its elaborate tower.

Then there is the castle, which is now part of the university. I doubt it would have offered much defence, but it is a beautiful building. A wee bit more attractive than Owen's Park. Behind it is a nice botanical garden, which was definitely worth visiting despite the rain.

The other great feature is the promenade, a path for cyclists and pedestrians that runs right round the old town.

Day 41 - Höxter to Detmold

A quick 55km cycle to Detmold today. With more rain forecast, and a large town close it seemed sensible to have a shortened day.

There wasn't anything of interest so it was head down through the wind with virtually no rest. After arriving it was straight up the hill to the hostel, again at the top of a steep climb. It is pouring down and only about 14 degrees so there is little to do except sit around the hostel.

If there is a break in the weather I might make a dash for the old town and dinner.

Tomorrow there is sun forecast so I might try to go 135km to Münster before a rest day after as more rain is predicted.

Ps. The rain has stopped and there is a place with curry pizza and free WiFi.

Day 40 - Bad Gandersheim to Höxter

It was wet, windy and cold. It wasn't a Tuesday night in Blackpool, but I don't think Messi would have fancied it - and neither did I.

In the end it brightened up, though the rain clouds kept threatening. I've been ridiculously lucky with weather this trip, only being caught in serious rain for two days in Estonia. Today a downpour started again when I arrived at the hostel, cleared up long enough to go out for dinner, before a storm broke out as I arrived back.

Anyway, don't want to give the British a reputation for talking about the weather. There wasn't too much to see on a shortened 74km day. The hills in the distance were pleasant, but there was only one serious 100 metre climb to Stadtoldendorf. With rain threatening it seemed best just to push on.

I hadn't realised how fatigued I was, but the lack of hills made me feel much better. The other major one was up to the hostel. After riding virtually flat along the river the hills bank either side and the hostel is at the top. It is about a kilometre of 10 percent, which hurts with panniers.

Höxter is an absolute ghost town this evening, despite being a Saturday. Nobody is in the restaurants or cafes, possibly because of the weather.

In contrast, the town of Einbeck, my first break of the day, was a bustling market.

I'm probably going for another shorter day tomorrow to Detmold instead of a rest day. While these small towns are quaint there isn't enough to do alone for a day. Maybe in Goslar there was.

Day 39 - Wernigerode to Bad Ganderheim

Today probably hit the highest point on the R1 - at least, I hope so. In the last couple of days it has risen from 40m above sea level to 390 just before Goslar. It then goes up and down hills and valleys. I feel like I've either been stamping away on the pedals or cruising down without putting in any effort.

While the cycling has been challenging - and mostly on gravel and mud - the views have been rewarding. First it goes past a monastery at Drübeck and then through the woods towards Bad Harzburg the path looks out over the valley.

The route climbs over and past Goslar - the region's main town - before winding down to the ancient city.

The central square is beautiful, but a little hard to appreciate immediately. Popping into a bakery made returning for some pictures all the sweeter.

Frustratingly I missed the emperor's palace, the seat of power of the holy Roman empire for 200 years. I even knew it was there, but in my haze of burning thighs forgot to check it out. There is also a mining museum in the hills.

From there it is back up into the hills again, but they are smaller and there is less to see. Signs warn of falcon (or another bird of prey) and one was soaring above. There are also plenty of dragons flies and butterflies in the region, as well as the irritating kind that stick to you in shady patches.

Bad Ganderheim is the next interesting town, around 40km on from Goslar. Other places listed were tiny hamlets.

There appears to be preparation for some youth festival under the church. Lots of German churches have a double steeple, giving them a fortress like air.

Under 1000km to go now, probably in 2 weeks, giving enough time for a couple of rest days.

Day 38 - Stassfurt to Wernigerode

The feeling when arriving after a tough day's cycling is great. I guess it is what motivates people to do run or ride long distances. It is a potent cocktail of adrenaline, relief and achievement.

It also helps when the place is as nice as Wernigerode. The castle looks over the cobbled old town filled with cafes and restaurants. Stassfurt had similar looking streets but a run down feel to it. People wanted to be here.

Going towards the first stop it started entering the highlands. It climbs about 80m up from Stassfurt, which is only about 40m above sea level. It also becomes undulating - a tough proposition with panniers.

The reward is more interesting towns, most of which have castles and old towns. Wernigerode is certainly the highlight of them, but Thale and Blankenburg are nice. Thale had a cable car and the road I took seemed to wind its way up the hills.

Sadly Germany has been a bit of a disappointment for the quality of the R1. They've put a lot of though into making sure it goes through interesting places - in contrast to Poland - but some of the paths are poor. One of them was not really suited for a hybrid, even though mine is set up towards the mountain bike end of the spectrum. They have also hidden signs behind hedges, while at Concordia am See the path goes round in a ridiculous circle. With the hills, a lot of wind and missed sign posts the 96.5km on the calculator worked out a lot more. And my body is feeling it too.

Day 37 - Dessau to Stassfurt

I'm writing this a day later and am struggling to remember too much of the cycling already.

The two major stop-offs on route, especially Köthen Anhalt, were nice, but it is disappointing when your destination is rubbish. Stassfurt was big enough, but had nothing of use. One pension was full, and the place Google said was a youth house had closed down long ago. There was another up the street, but it was just a place for the remaining kids to hang out.

I studied German at GCSE but can't remember anything. I probably didn't learn too much. My first exam was a success though when after wandering around aimlessly for a bit I managed to order some schnitzel and then follow the chef's directions to a place to stay.

Arriving in town is always frustrating due to the hunt for somewhere to sleep.

There isn't much more to say about the place.